The Gippsland Lakes are directly East of Melbourne, with mountains in between. As the weather pattern is generally from West to East, the mountains protect the coast. This takes the edge off the westerly winds , giving more warmth and sunlight but creating a dry ‘rain shadow’ effect. So the Lakes are warmer and drier in winter than Melbourne (Remember the ‘Riviera’ campaign?) and cooler and more humid in summer. It is a mild maritime climate.
How does this effect the type of wine produced?
If a generalisation can be made about climate zones and their reflection in the grapes, then Victoria has three types. The first is deep inland, especially along the Murray River, where it is hot and there is reliance on irrigation. A large volume of Australia’s wine is produced in such areas, alongside table grapes and historically ports and sherries. The second is the ‘Alpine Valleys’ and would include the Yarra Valley, King Valley, Beechworth, Great Western, Heathcote etc. Their vine growing and ripening period is characterised by warm days and cool nights (ie. ‘continental’). They have a risk of Spring frosts. Thirdly are the Coastal growing areas like Geelong, Mornington, South Gippsland and Eastern Gippsland with a small range between day and night temperatures, day long sea breezes etc. The vines have long growing and ripening seasons but prone to adverse weather and disease.
Interesting. Not what I asked. Can we draw any conclusions about varieties and styles suited to different parts of Victoria?
I’m just getting warmed up. The jury is still out because our industry is so young. Europe has had centuries of experience. Our popular wine grape varieties derive from Europe and around the Mediterranean and not surprisingly we have tried to find similar climates to their home. The people who founded the modern Victorian wine industry in the 1960’s and 70’s were all eccentric dreamers who loved wine and were determined to imitate their favourite French wine. But it has not been so easy to translate Northern Hemisphere climates to the South and our soils are much older and less fertile. We have learnt that some grape varieties require plenty of warmth and a long growing season for the fruit to mature (eg. Cabernet Sauvignon). Others have short seasons but dislike excessive heat and stress (eg. Pinot Noir). Some don’t care particularly where they are grown. (eg. Chardonnay, Shiraz).
OK. But where do the ’11 Rivers’ wines fit into this picture?
I think there are two aspects that are distinctive. They are very aromatic/flavoursome, with a range of varietal flavours. In this sense they are more like European wines. In contrast to the mainstream Australian whites that can be thin and acidic, that I drink like water, and reds often heavy with tannin and high in alcohol that I find only drinkable with cheese. The best ‘11 River’s’ wines have lingering flavours and a richness that is memorable. The second is the ability to go so well with food. A local white wine with fish is a treat and the reds have a delicacy that can complement so many things.
Anything specific?
Chardonnay has been consistently well regarded, and Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc is a rising star. Pinot Noir of the more subtle style is appreciated and of late the spicy Syrah (Shiraz) style has turned not a few heads and enchanted palates. In the warmer years the Merlot and the blend with Cabernet Sauvignon can be impressive.
If this area makes such interesting wines why aren’t they better known and more vineyards planted?
That puzzles me too. A long answer lies in the history of the area and the nature of the Australian Wine Industry. The short one would be the distance from the market, high costs of production and being the ‘forgotten’ part of Victoria. A similar climate is Hawke’s Bay in New Zealand , which has a major wine and fruit industry.
Is it worthwhile to chase down a cellar door?
Yes. You are likely to meet the winemaker and be able to discuss the wines with him. AND the wineries are all in picturesque locations. AND you will get good value from the ‘farmgate’!
Where can you get them?
There are 14 small vineyards in ’11 Rivers’; Some have cellar doors (*) and all have mailing lists. Ask at the Information Centres regarding opening times or phone or look up the web site. The best stockists are at Stratford (Wah de-lock) and Yarragon (Gippsland Food and Wine).
Bairnsdale – Makafriend Winery – This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
Briagolong – Briagolong Estate – briagolongestate.com.au
Cann River – Noorinbee Selection Vineyard* – This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
Carrajung – Tom’s Cap* – tomscap.com.au
Cassilis – Mt. Markey Wines*
Calulu – B&H Lightfoot & Sons -
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Ensay – Ensay Winery*
Lakes Entrance – Wyanga Park*
Maffra – Glenmaggie Wines*- glenmaggiewines.com.au
Nicholson – Nicholson River Winery* – nicholsonriverwinery.com.au
Rosedale – Holley Hill Winery* –
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Sarsfield – Sarsfield Estate
Stockdale – Mt. Moornapa Wines
Swan Reach – Tambo Estate Winery
Ken Eckersley
